ENGLISH
ANCONA
Fonte
: www.emmeti.it
Built
on two hills that form an amphitheatre around the
harbour, it was settled in the 4th century BC by
Greek colonists from Syracuse. The oldest part of
town straddles Colle Guasco, the hill above the
port. On its peak, high above the agitation of the
modern city, stands Ancona's finest church and its
most obvious landmark, the Medieval Cathedral of
San Ciriaco, a pleasing mix of Romanesque and Gothic.
To see the rest of the best, start your walk from
the bottom of Corso Stamira down by the ferry docks.
After noting the Venetian-Gothic facade of the ruined
church of San Agostino cut across to nearby Piazza
della Repubblica where Corso Garibaldi and Corso
Mazzini start (the other two Corsi that complete
the city's trinity of parallel main streets). The
19th century Teatro delle Muse that boxes in the
square has been in restauro for rather some time.
From here take a brief detour up Corso Mazzini to
see the 16th century Fontana del Calamo, a regimented
row of 13 masked spouts. Back down in Piazza della
Repubblica, amble along Via della Loggia to see
the statue-decked Loggia dei Mercanti, an outstanding
example of florid Late Venetian-Gothic (the influence
of Venice is never very far away here). Further
on is the singular 13th century front of Santa Maria
della Piazza, rows of blind arches and plenty of
fidgety carving. Inside, a glass panel in the pavement
allows you to see the remains of the even older
church below. From Via della Loggia walk up to Piazza
del Plebiscito ruled over by a resplendent if cracked
statue of Pope Clement XII. Over his shoulder is
the Neoclassical Church of San Domenico with a stirring
Titian Crucifixion above the high altar. As you
climb up from the square on Via Pizzecolli you are
in the heart of the oldest part of the city. Palazzo
Bosdari guards Ancona's Pinacoteca; paintings to
look for here are Crivelli's chilly Madonna and
Child, Titian's Virgin with Child and Saints, and
Lorenzo Lotto's Sacra Conversazione. As you wind
onwards and upwards through deserted Piazza del
Senato and up Via Giovanni XXIII you will catch
glimpses of the ruins of the Roman amphitheatre
behind. A last effort and you are on the summit
of Colle Guasco, with breath-taking views out to
sea and the white, wind-blown face of the Cathedral
behind you. Now take a sprightly walk back down
for a fish lunch or oysters by the fountain.